Ruffler and gatherer for sewing-machines



I H. O. GOODRIOH. RUFFLER AND GATHERERTOR SEWING MACHINES; No. 397,908.

(Model.) I

Patented Feb. 19, 1889.

1111114 "III/III. ,3 a) &

N. PETERS'Pholo-LRMgr-Iphu. Washinghzn. DiC- rrn STATES ATENT HARRY C. GOODRICI-I, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 397,908, dated February 19, 1889.

Application filed January 24, 1887. serial No. 225,272. (Model) 10 alt who/1t it may concern:

Be it known that I, I'IARRY C. GOODRICH, '1

residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, and a citizen of the United States, have invented a new and useful Improvement in ltutliers for SewingMachines, of which the following is a full description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in whlch- Figure 1 is a side elevation showing the parts in position and the r u t'fler-bl ade receded; Fig. 2, a side elevation showing the millerblade advanced; Fig. 3, a reverse side elevation'from Fig. 2, with the ruffler-blade advanced; Fig. 4, a section on line 00 a: of 2 and 3; Fig. 5, a top or plan view; Figs. 6 and 7, perspective views of the compensatingblock; Fig. 8, a cross-section through the presser-toot and compensating-block; Fig. 9,

a sectional elevation of the presser-foot, standard, and socket; Fig. 10, a top or plan View of the guard-plate and its support; Fig. 11, a top or plan view of the ruftler-blade; Fig. 12, a detail of the swinging arm or plate and the ruining-blade; Fig. 13, a perspective view of the ruiiie-strip holder; Fig. 14, a detail of the gear for oscillating the ruffler-blade arm or plate; Fig. 15, a detail of the arm or plate for adjusting the throw of the blade; Fig. 16, a crosssection of the arm shown in Fig. 15 on the line 3 3 of said figure; Fig. 17, a detail of the actuating-lever; Fig. 18, a detail of the plate connecting the actuating-lever with the adjusting arm or plate which carries the ruffling-blade; Fig. 19, a plan of an anti-friction plate hereinafter mentioned; Fig. 20, a detail in section of a plate secured to the under side of the presser-foot, showing the bearing-point for the compensating-block Fig. 21, a detail, being a cross-section through the guide for the upper tape, showing the apex for turning the ruiiier-blade transversely.

The objects of this invention are to improve the construction and operation of the compensating-block located on the under side of the presser-foot, and by which inequalities in the level of the feed are overcome, so as to have a uniform pressure upon the material being ruffled, and by which the slipping or drawing back of the material will be overcome; to improve the construction and operation of the ruffiing-blade and the devices by j which such blade is given. its i'UClplOGitblllg movement; to improve the construction and operation of the devices by which the throw of the oscillating arm or plate which carries the ruttling-blade is adjusted to give the blade the proper amount of throw, and to improve generally the constructimi and operation of the milling attachment as a whole; and its nature consists in the several parts and combinations of parts hereinafter described, and pointed out in the claims as new.

In the drawings, A represents the presserfoot proper, having at its front end a standard, A, for the attachment of the oscillating arm for the rutliing-blade and the actuating lever and devices, and having at its heel end an extension, A, with a ring portion, a, which receives the socket A by which the rutfler is connected with the presser-foot bar, and, as shown, the socket A is attached to the ring a by an end or projccting portion, a, and the attachment of the socket to the presser-foot bar is made by means of a thumb or set screw, it". The presser-foot A, as shown, is in the form of a plate, and is provided with a hole, a, as usual, for the passage of the needle, and, as shown, the standard A has on one edge a projecting portion or car, a.

B is a plate brazed or otherwise firmly secured to the under side of the presser-t'oot, and having an extension, B, with a portion, B, which is turned so as to leave between the extension and portion B an opening, Z), which forms a guide for the upper binding strip or tape. The plate 13 is provided with a hole, which, when the plate is in position, forms a contil'iuation of the needle-hole a, and the front edge of the plate on each side of the extension is provided with a turned-down lip, b, and the under side of the plate has formed thereon a projection or point, I), which i forms a bearing for the compensating-block.

l C is the compensating-block located on the under side of the plate B, and having its contact-face provided with an apex, 0, formed by cutting away on each side, so as to leave i11- clined portions c, as shown in Fig. 7, audthe bearing-face of this block is formed to have an inclined face, 0, at each rear corner, and a central apex, 0 so as to leave a face having three bearing-points, as shown in Fig. 6, so that in connection with the apex c and inclines c the block U is free to rock and conis a hole, j, by means of which the arm is form to any inequalities of the feed. As shown, the bearingedgc ot' the block straight and rounded oil? and. slightly de n'essed, so as to leave a free space just back. of the bearingedge for the crimp or rut'lle which. has been sewed to enter; but this t'aee back of the bearing-edge can he letft plain, if so desired.

D a screw, the stem ot which passes through the com )ensating-bloek, the plate l3, and into the ncsser-loot A, and the head a I of which. enters a depression, d, in the comk pensating-bloek, which depression. ot' a lar er diameter than the head of the screw to allow the block to rock and adjust; itself to inequalities. The front edge of the block is provided with a recess, (1, which, when the block is in 1)OS.lll()i1,lS in line with the needlebar screw, by which the lever is connected hole a for the passage of the needle, and when the block is in position it rests against the point 1), so as to have abearing to give the block a perfectly free movement.

E is a plate bent on itself to form an upper portion, 1?, and a lower portion, 0, and the upper portion is provided with a notch or recess, e, to receive the stem of a set-screw, e, by which the plate as a whole is attached to the presser-toot- A, so as to leave a clear space lwtwecn the two parts ci c for the passage of the strip to be ruttled.

11 is the guard-blade, secured at its t'ront end to the arm c oli the plate E, and having at its rear end a slot, f, to linewith thencedle-hole in the n'essei toot, and, as shown, the arm c in lfrontotf the attached end ol the blade 11 is provided with a slot, j".

(l is a ruttl'ing-blade, the actuating end ol. which is provided. with a slot, g for the passage of the needle, and with teeth g, as usual,

and this blade, when the parts are together,

rides above the blade l H is a socket, to which the rut'tling bhnlle is secured, and, as shown, this sockethas a central cut-away portion, h, leaving strips 7: on each end, and a sutlieient space or opening to allow the socket to he. slipped onto its connecting-stud, and after being slipped into position have the strips 71 t urned down to lock the socket onto its stud smnewln'rt loosely.

I isa guide-plate having a slot, 1', and formed with or connected to a socket, l, which can be slipped over the socket ll and attach the guideplate to the rutller.

J is an arm, at the free end of which is a study, which receivesthe socket lI' as shown in Fig. 12, the socket being attached by passing the stud through the slot or opening in the socket, as shown in Fig. 12, and. then turning the points 71 down, as shown inv Fig. 1, and to keep the socketl'rom sli iping otl the stud the outer end of the stud is formed with a. head, against which the end of the socket will abut when on the stud. ".the arm or plate J has an opening, J, the edge ofpivoted or suspended on the standard A.

K is a plate having a hub, 7.", which en.- eireled by a ring or band, K, having on its )eripher v leaves In, which, when the part s are together, meshwiththe leaves ,lhis )late K is of a circular form with an ear or extension ln'lving projecting arms or pieces /r In, as shown in Fig. 1.-|-.

L is a plate havingan elongated slot, 1, with a recess or opening, I, on one side, and one edge olf this plate l', is provided with ears or projections l and t, which, when the parts are together, are in position to come in contact, respectively, with the arms I. and Ir ol' the plate K.

M. is the actuating-lever, having at. its outer end a. fork, M, for the shank of the needlewith the needle-bar, so that the movement; of the needle-bar will operate the lever. The plate L is ctmneetcd to the lever M: by a suitable pin or pivot, n), and when the parts are together the slot comes in line with the hole which receives the pin or pivot by which the lever is attached to the standard A, so that the slot twill allow of adjustment in the operation of the devices.

N is an extension of the leverM,lntvingon its face a series of ratchet teeth or notches, n.

t) is a plate ha-vingat its tree end a turned portion, 0, to lie over the extension N when the parts are togetlwr, and having on its main part a ln't'ljectit'm, 0, which enters the recess Z and connects the plate ll with the plate 0, so that the movement. of theplate 0 will move the plate L and change the rela-tit'm. ot' the n'ojections Z I with reference to the arms 7n 7.,toproduce a variation in the throw ot' the ru't'tling-bladc, by which such blade will act to produce coarse or tine crimps, as desired.

1 is the pin or pivot for attaching the actuating-lever M, provirh'al with plate L, plate K, and arm 0 to the standard A,the pin passing hrough a hole in the arm 0 and the hole in the huh or center 7.; and a hole in the lever M, and torming a pivott'or all of these part and this pin enters a hole, p, in the car a of the standard A, and is secured in place by riveting or setting down its end.

(.3 is a pin or pivot connecting the arm or plate .I with the standard A, the pin assing through a hole, q, in the standard A and entering the hole in the arm .l', where it is held by riveting or setting down its end, and, as shown, a. washer, p, is placed. between the head ot the pin l and the face of the arm 0, and a washer, ,.is placed lmtween the head ot. the pin (g and the face of the standard A, which washers 1 form anti llfrietion surfaces in the operation of the devices.

It is an anti-friction plate interposed between the lace of the standard A and. the faces of the plates .l K, and through which anti'trict ion plate the pins or pivots P Q. pass.

The parts are assemlded by attaching the con'ipcnsatirig-block C in position through the screw D. The washer R is placed against the face of the standard A, and the arm J is attached to the standard A by the pin or pivot Q, which is passed through the washer (1, standard A, plate R, and arm J. The plate K, with the ring K and its leaves 71;, is slipped into the opening .I to have the leaves k mesh with the leaves j. The plate L is attached to the lever M by its pivot m, and the plate is placed against the face of the plate L, with its point 0 in the recess Z, and the pin or pivot is passed through the hole therefor in the plate 0 and the slot Z in the plate L and the hole in the lever M, through the hole in the hub or center is of the plate K, and entered into the hole 1), to be there secured, connecting the several parts together and to the standard A. The rufiier-blade is connected to the arm J by slipping the socket H onto the stud j and turning down the strips 71 which loosely mounts the ruffling-blade upon the stud, and at the same time holds the blade against side play or movement. The arm of the plate E is placed on the ruffier-blade, and there locked by means of the set-screw e and slot 6'', which secures the blade F in position to lie beneath the millingblade, and when the parts are thus assembled the ruffler is ready for use.

In use the socket A=is locked to the presserfoot bar by the set-screw a, and the fork h is connected with the set-screw or other pin on the needle-bar, and when so attached the hole a is in line with the descent of the needle, so that the needle can pass through such hole and the recess d in the compensatingblock 5, and the front edge of the compensating-block is in position to press upon the crimp and hold the material against slipping in either direction. The material on which the ruffle is to be sewed is placed beneath the plate F, so as to be engaged by the feed of the machine, as usual, and the strip or piece to be ruffled is passed through the slot 1' or the space i in the guide I, according as it is a right or left hand ruffle, thence over the blade F and beneath the ruffiing-blade, and the strip or band for the under side of the ruflied strip is passed through the slot and beneath the blade 1 and the upper band or strip is passed through the guide-slot Z)" above the ruining-blade, and the several pieces thus brought together are passed beneath the compensating-block and presserfoot, so that the material on which a ruffle is to be sewed is engaged by the feed of the machine to carry forward the several pieces. The movement of the needle-barreciprocates the leverM, and the movements of this lever oscillate the plate L, bringing the projections Z Z of such plate in contact with the arms 1; and H, which oscillates the plate K, and causes the leaves It through. the leaves j to oscillate the arm or plate J to reciprocate the ruining-blade. The downward movement of the lever M swings the arm or plate J in a direction to withdraw the ruffling-blade, and

the upward movement of the lever swings the plate J to advance the ruffling-blade, and these movements occur so that as the rufliingblade is being withdrawn the feed of the machine is acting to advance the material, and as the ruining-blade is advanced the feed oi. the machine is nonacting.

The amount of throw given to the rufliiugblade is regulated by the adj listing-arm O in connection with the notches n of the extension N, with which notches the point 0 of the arm 0 can be made to engage, so as to change the point in the ascent and descent of the actuating-lever at which the projections or ears Z and Z engage the arms it" and k thus changing the throw of the arm or plate J. The engagement of the ears Z Z with the arms 71; 7& swings the plate J back and forth, the plate being turn ed to advance the rufflingblade by the engagement of the ear Z with the arm 71;", and the engagement of the ear Z with the arm k turns the plate J to recede the ruffling-blade, and by making these e11- gagement-s at various points in the movement of the lever the advance of the rufi'ling-blade can be increased and its receding movement decreased, or vice versa, to produce coarse or fine crimps.

The outer face of the plate B can have an apex formed at a point in line wit-h the center of descent of the needle to act as a bearing pointfor the rniiiing-b1ade,by which said blade will be turned slightly transversely to adapt itself to the plane of the compensating-block, and this construct-ion enables the blade to readily adjust itself to any irregularity in the set of the arm J and stud j, or of the socket II in relation to the plane of the presser-foot or compensating-block.

\Vhat I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. The combination, with the presser-t'oot and ruining-blade, of the plate B, located on the under side of the presser-foot and having on its under side a projection, Z), and the compensating-block C, connected with said plate B,and having an apex, c, and inclines c, said apex being in contact with the projection 19 of plate B, whereby said block can rock transversely, substantially as described.

2. The combination, with the presser-foot and rufl'ling-blade, of the plate B, having projection b, and the compensating-block 0, provided with an apex, c, and inclines c c on its upper face, and having its lower face provided With inclines o" c",bearing-point c and a front bearing-edge, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

3. The combination, with a reciprocating rufliing-blade and the presser-foot, of the compensating-block 0, having apex c, inclines c c, inclined faces 0 c, and apex c and a connecting-screw, D, for attaching the compensating-block to the presser-foot to rock in all directions, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

4. The-combination of a reciprocating ruffling-l)1ade, a presseir-loot, theplate B, having abearing-point, b, and ears I)", the compensating-block G, having apex c, inclines 0 c, inclined faees o e, and apex 0", and the pivot D, su'listantialh' as and for the purpose specifled.

5. The eolnliimilion oF. a reeipi'oeaiing ruf- IiingJJlmle, a presser-foot, a plate, 13, having an extension, 13, provided with a turned portion, B, to fOl'lll a guide for the upper band, the e0nipensating-liloek C, and the pivot D, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

6. The combination of the presser-foot, the swinging arm J, having an opening, J, provicletl With leaves j, the i'ufiling-blade G, the plate K, the ring K, having leaves 7; and arms 71" the plate L, having ears l" 7*, and

HARRY (I. ('lOODRICIl. Witnesses:

ALBERT 1T. Animus, Ham-1v '1. J oNns. 

